Day 11 of Panchakarma

Wheat and temple on the hill

So far so good, feeling more energy since the end of the drinking gee sessions; boy was that weird. For the next 12 days there will be two treatments a day and veggie diet. What has really interested and impressed me is Dr Siby’s knowledge of how hormone replacement medicine affects the body, both at the physical and subtle levels. His explanation of what happens in the body fits exactly the symptoms I have been enduring the past few years. According to western medicine there was nothing wrong with me and those symptoms were put down to stress, while all the time the very medicine prescribed as a cure for one ailment was the cause of my more problems. Anyway I am going with what he suggests for now and we will see how I react. If he can get me of these hormone pills then fantastic.

Bahgsu

Along with treatment my days are filled with meditation and yoga practice, working on a proposal for the Kashmir women’s project and trying to make contact with people who could be instrumental in gathering key women in various communities. Living in Baghsu has been relaxing and interesting. I have a lovely room in an extended family home and at 6am every morning, along with the mooing of the pregnant cow next door and morning bird songs, granny sings traditional songs at the top of her lungs as she sweeps the stairs just outside the door. The family is not quiet, shouting, arguing, loud music etc. but they are very happy and so welcoming to this funny wee foreigner. Granny just loves to watch and laugh at me doing yoga and is always looking in my window to see what I may be up too? The kids in the village are also getting used to seeing me and now allowing me to join in their games. One two year old now puts her hand sin Namaste whenever she sees me; oh she is so cute. The shop keepers selling trinkets to the rich Punjabi tourists have finally given up on asking me to “come see my shop madam” or “buy something nice madam” as I pass by as they have figured out I am not buying. Now we exchange Namaste’s and just smile.
Going for walks in the hills has been great and I have truly enjoyed taking the time to appreciate the work of local artist trying to sell there creations on the roadside.

Thangka painter

Wood block carver

Deity wall cloths

In stark contrast to the locals the foreign tourist here in Baghsu are very interesting and I do not seem to fit with their style at all; which is fine with me. They are mostly Israeli but also from Europe and USA dressed in all sorts of colourful baggy getups with dreadlocks plied high on their heads, hugs pieces of jewelry dangling from ears, necks, ankles and noses, belts, scarf and handmade leather hip bags, tattoos and henna designs on all parts of their bodies and piercings that make your head turn and mind go OWCH! We cannot forget the guitar, didgeridoo, drum, bamboo flute or accordion, yes one guy had an accordion, thrown over a shoulder or in funky tie dye, hemp or cotton back pack. Of course it also goes without saying that as you pass by some of the cafes or street corners you can get a second hand hit from the clouds of ganja smoke wafting in the breeze. I love checking out all the styles and enjoy chatting with people from all backgrounds but what is kind of weird in this would be chilled somewhat hippy environment, is the harsh attitude of these travelers. There is a pervasive unfriendliness, a sense of superiority, privilege and closeness not only to the locals but to all people who are not dressed as they are. Travelers used to enjoy interacting with each other, even help each other out but now it seems that they are in competition to look the coolest, or tell the most outrageous travel and party stories. It is interesting to note the changes.