Landing

December 2^nd  5.30 am. I was so at peace watching the sunrise turn the clouds shades of pink, red and yellow, on the background of a clear, crisp blue sky; then the wheels hit hard on the tarmac and I was thrown up off my seat and the plane veered off to the left as the pilot slammed on the brakes. Grasping the armrests for dear life I heard, “Welcome to Indra Gandhi international airport, Delhi, we hope you have had a pleasant flight.” The flight was fine but my pounding heart and white knuckles screamed that the landing was horrific. As we taxied to the terminal the smell of pollution seemed to seep through the planes joints; ahhh the smell of Delhi in the morning, a putrid, rotting and smoky stench with a  thick dusty texture and a hint of metal tasting Co2. My thoughts were both a mixture of excitement to be back and embarking on a new adventure but also a longing for the tranquility of the English country side and the fresh air of the Scottish North Sea which I had just left. So to stay positive, I decided to take the beautiful sunrise as a good omen to start this trip rather than take the nerve-wracking landing as a bad sign. I knew the day would be an assault on the senses and that I would take a few days to get back into the Indian rhythm of life, so here I go.

December 4^th.

Smelly Delhi can be a fun place and you never know what you might encounter. As I was coming from the airport in a beat up taxi, the driver defying all road laws as if he were on the dodgem cars, we passed a painted elephant being ridden by his owner through rush hour traffic. This was just a bit surreal but I took this as another good omen. It was really great to hang out with Pema, Tashi, Chitso and Tenzin for breakfast before taking the plane to Goa. In Goa, Bagmallo beach is 5 minutes from the airport and you can get a  room, 500 rupees ($10)  with hot water and clean sheets right on the beach. Dinner was a wonderful Goan veg curry done in coconut sauce; yummy! Next morning up early and took the train over a tropical jungle covered mountain range to the Hindu holy site of Hubli and then taxi to the Dreprung Loseling Monastery near Mungod, Karnathaka. The next morning after a last minute rush to get the correct paper work approved for entering this restricted area, I found myself sitting on the marble floor of a very ornate and colourful temple in a sea of maroon robes and shaved heads, listening to His Holiness the 14^th Dalai Lama of Tibet teach the 2500 year old teachings of the Buddha Shakyamuni (the Buddha of our time). It was as if I have gone back in time.

Dec. 6^th    

His Holiness is teaching the Lam Rim, which translates as the path to enlightenment. It is the condensed version of Buddhist philosophy and practice (wisdom and method) which is normally taught over a 20 year period in the Tibetan monasteries. So every day is packed with transmission and explanation of this profound path. Today and yesterday we examined the practice of the six perfections of generosity, ethics, patience, joyous effort, concentration and wisdom, which is way too much information squeeze into two day so my head is buzzing and filled to the brim. The teaching is taking place in Drepung  and Ganden monasteries.  

For info on Drepung        http://www.drepung.org/monastery.cfm.

For info on Ganden monestry      http://gadenjangtse.com/

For info on the present  teaching        http://www.jangchuplamrim.org/ 

For info on the Dalai Lama          http://www.dalailama.com/ 

Both monasteries are huge building with thousands of monks and when you think that the Tibetans have only been out of Tibet for 50 years and had to carve this site of a piece of jungle given to them by the Indian government, it is really truly amazing what the monastic community has accomplished. Not only have they created beautiful temples and produced well educated monks and nuns but have kept the Buddha’s teachings alive but thriving.

Hello again,

After Leh I returned to Srinagar to be part of the Eid celebrations with the family. Mum and the 2 brothers did Ramazan fasting for the whole month, in blazing hot weather so they were all very happy to celebrate the end of the fasting month. I felt very lucky to be part of the celebration in which the whole town was out on the streets buying food, new clothes and just enjoying life.
On the first day of Eid,after the last big gathering for prayers at the Mosque we all had a big lunch together. Mum cooked some hot and spicy delicious food and there was a constant stream of visitors wishing each other happy Eid.  In the afternoon  Fayaz, his two friends and myself took off on a small bike ride around town and up into the hills close to the lake. A beautiful day with everyone in such a happy mood, of course the traffic was crazy busy  but fun all the same.

The second day, after a visit to the new fiance's home we took off again on the bikes and went up to a ruined Hindu Temple close by the river in the valley by Naratnag. Another great day with lots of laughter and fantastic scenery. Kashmir is a beautiful place and it was just one of those days where I was thankful for all the good in life and to be able to be in India with some good people.

Since then I have come back to McLeod Ganj as His Holiness starts teachings tomorrow. It is monsoon season here, humid and damp and completely different for the hot dry heat of Srinagar. It has been nice to settle back into McLeod and see some old friends, dharma practitioners as well as bump into other travellers on the same route.

It has been a relaxing time here in Leh, which was much needed. Also the altitude seems to make everything just that wee bit slower. I first laughed at the new oxygen bar now go every day for a hit of O2 and what a difference it makes. I have met some great people from all over the world, at the Mahabodhi Society which offers daily meditation and yoga classes. The German instructor makes a point every class to ask people countries and it has been a nice way to get to know some people while I am here.

the welcome commity

Making Ladhaki chapati

Yesterday also visited the open house day at the Women;s Alliance of Ladhak. .http://womenallianceladakh.org/ The ladies were all in their traditional dress and showing off their home make goods, everything from jams to clothes and cooking up all kind of traditional foods. I had often seen their good displayed in small shops in Zanskar so it was good to see how their co-op has grown since its beginning in the late 80’s. Before the 80’s invasion of the modern world, Ladhak was pretty much self sufficient. They have a great melted snow fed irrigation system for their fields as well as open water way alongside the street that bring water into people’s homes and gardens. The houses are mud brick and wood which is cool in summer and warm in winter. The crops are dried or pickled and used over the long winters, the local booze (chang) is made from barley, clothes are home spun wool while the shoes were leather and wool and even the traditional toilets are dry compost toilets. Now-a-days there has been a huge influx of disposable and packaged goods and plastic so the environment has taken a beaten. However there is also a fast growing interest in environmental awareness and getting back to recycling and respect for the land, which is great to see.

Thiksay Monastery

Down the valley from Leh and in the surrounding areas are many small villages with large monasteries. 

Matreya

Shakyamuni

Today jumped on the bus out to Thiksay Monastery which is beautiful and perched on a small hill. It is home to the biggest and most stunning statue of Matreya Buddha. It was very inspiring; if only the Indian tourist would be quiet. Then went down to Shey place, the old seat of Ladhaki royalty, before the palace was built in Leh. After another slow climb up the hill huffing and puffing I was warmly greeted by a monk and his cat at the entrance to a very dark and musty room where a huge statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is on display. The wall paintings were barely recognizable as years of smoke from butter lamps had coated the walls. The statue was stunning and the room set up in such a way that you can sit on the well worn wood floor and look into the face to the Buddha. So after a donation and a prayer or two I sat down for a wee meditation, but that was completely disrupted by the cat that came and sat on my lap and demand to be cuddled and petted. Such a joy. Om Mani Padme Hung Purrrrrrrrrrr.

with Neil and Karen

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thikse_Monastery

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shey_Monastery

Momo Making Party.

Last night was such a good time making momos with Lhamo and her three buddies. In her two room ( no bathroom) rented flat furnished only with a mattress floor mat and metal box that serves as a table we eat well and laughed a lot. Since her Children are in the Tibetan Children's Village in Dharamsal she has the freedom to work long hours while here in Leh but even after a 12 hour work day she rustled up 3 huge plates of momos. Amazing and delicious.

Lhamo stringing a mala (prayer beads)

Meet Lhamo

 I first met Lhamo in 1996 when she worked as a cook in restaurant in McLeod Ganj. She was only 22 then and had newly arrived from western Tibet. She came to Indian because she had heard about the Dalai Lama and that she could get a Tibetan education in Dharamsala, India.  After arriving in the capital of Tibet, Lhasa, she joined a group of people who had a guide to help them make the tretchiourious walk over the Himalayas into Nepal. She, like many Tibetans, does not talk about that time much but when asked she just says it was a long walk and she was tired and hungry. To say she is stoic is an understatement. Anyway on arrival in India getting a job and accommodation was most important. Luckily the Tibetan government in exile has set up refugee reception centers in Nepal, Delhi and Dharamsala where new arrivals can get a bed, food and some money for travel expenses. These days most are asked to return to Tibet after they have had an audience with His Holiness, many do but many more stay in India. So Lhamo managed to get a cooking job with accommodation, however the work hours were long which left no time of energy for studies. The transit school in Dharamsala is specifically for new arrivals like Lhamo who are older but have little education. There they can learn Tibetan language, Hindi and English along with basic math and some other skills for surviving in India. Student usually stay there for 1 year and are then asked to leave and find work in India of go back to Tibet. Lhamo never made it to the transit school. She met a guy and had a baby instead. 

Being pregnant she could not work in the Kitchen so decided to start up her own small business selling momos (Tibetan meat or veg dumplings) on the streets of McLeod Ganj. I remember being a regular customer to her and encouraged my friend to also buy momos from her. So her baby arrived but the relationship was not so good so with her meager savings in her pocket and very strong spirit, telling no-one she took the bus to Delhi one night in attempts to start a new on her own. I did bump into her in Amravati at a teaching of His Holiness a few years later. She and a few other women were selling momos from a cart. She had her baby on her hip and was still smiling. I was so glad to see her and she said she was doing well but with me now living at that time again we lost touch. So in Ladhak I was so surprised to see her again, after 13 years.The first thing she did, after a huge bear hug was show me a picture of her 2 children, aged 15 and 13 years old. Wow how time has flown. She has retired from the momo business and now has a jewelry business. In summer she works in Leh and the rest of the year in Goa. It has been such a pleasure so see her again, and I can only admire her strength, determination, hard work ethic and generous heart and open smile.

Shanti Stupa Leh

View over Leh

Emma Martha & me with crazy monk in the background

Leh
 Leh has grown a lot since my first visit here in 1997. Full of tourist coffee shops, restaurant taxis and all kind os shops selling what every tourist needs. I was shopping the other day for a gift when I bumped into a friend whom I had not seen in 15 years . She is from Tibet. Small world these days and it was great to catch up with her.
Leh is great for walking and the best walk in town is up to the Shanti Stupa. It is beautifully and so peaceful especially at 5am, well that is what Neil tells me. I have only made it up there at sunset and what a sunset it was.     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanti_Stupa

His Hoiness gave 4 days of teaching on Atisha's Lamp to the Pathhttp://www.lamrim.com/hhdl/atishaslamp.html
and Tsongkapa's Praise of  Dependant Origination  http://www.berzinarchives.com/web/en/archives/sutra/level2_lamrim/advanced_scope/voidness_emptyness/introduction_praise_dependent_arisi.html

HHDL making sure the foreigners are all listening

Two calssic text and again the foundation of the Buddhist path. Instead of the intimate environment we had in Zanskar the teaching ground was packed and must have held about 10,000 people. In true Indian style the toiltes were open air by the river ( cover your nose) and no vender's selling bottle water or food  so take a picnic. But what great atmosphere. It rained the first day and we had good cloud cover for most of the teaching. Only a few time did we bake in the sun. So overall it went really well and His Holiness was in good health and good spirits. On the last day it was hot and some of the monks in the front row fell asleep, well HHDL was not so happy about this and like a good teacher he reprimanded those monk and they were escorted out of the teaching ground. What an embarrassment. HHDL  then turned around to the foreigners section and said in English " no point to come here if your not paying attention; isn't it." This was a reprimand to all of us who were also dozing in the sun, not listening or too busy taking photos. I think we all sat up straight after that, well I know me and Karen did.

salad anyone?

peace man

A few of us got together for picnic lunch in the volunteer tent. Each one of us produced some food item and like the fish and the bread story we had a feast which consisted of ; yak cheese bread, tomatoes, cucumber melted chocolate, nuts, cookies, apricots and figs. So spontaneous and so nice. Thanks you guys!

Prayer flags in the wind. Padam Zanskar, so peacefull.

Day 2 of Teachings in Leh.

After that long trip myself and Emma had 2 down days, poor Emma got the Delhi belly so we now know where the doctor is. The first few days here were scorching hot, but by some miracle it rained on the night before the teaching and the morning of the first day. We sat huddled under umbrellas and shawls, cardboard boxed, no -one moving in case they lost their seat or view of His Holiness.

The teaching ground is about 15 minute drive out of town. So rise at 5.30 am and out the door, find a shared taxi and trudge down the muddy roads to the foreigners section and hope there is a seat close to the speakers or that the radio will work.( The teachings get translated over an FM radio station). The teaching ground is beautiful, backed up beside a rocky hill with a river and trees. There has to be about 10,000 people attending again from all over the Himalayan region. There are a lot more foreigners attending this teaching. Most seem to be hiking tourist all with huge cameras and ADD in that they can not sit still for half an hour let alone 5 hours. I have met some great people though, made new friends and bumped into a few old friends too.

Saying by to Tenzin

Arriving in Ladhak,

The last day of teaching in Padam was just great. Not only did His Holiness give a great teaching on the eight verses of mind training but also gave a Chenrazig (compassion Buddha) and White Tara (long life Buddha empowerment and blessing. Even though the sun beat down a few thousand people endures the heat and sat patiently under the shade of umbrellas and shawls, bushes, and broken up cardboard boxes while wearing wet headscarfs. No words can explain what a wonderful morning it was, even the sky seemed bluer the clouds and snow cap mountains whiter and the fields greener. I can only describe the valley as more magical or truly blessed. Everyone present was happy and smiling, even the security guards became more pleasant. I was lucky to meet with Tenzin, the young Monk who befriended me before I left town. We had a bowl of Thentuk ( Tibetan veg soup with noodles) and chatted in his bad English and my bad Tibetan. We was showing off his new Bod Marley head scarf he had just got in the market.

our jeep in Ladhak

The highest point between Srinagar and Leh

Giant Matreya rock carving outside Kargil

So after a huge gathering like that come the exodus and I was lucky to jump on a jeep at 5pm going straight to Leh. It turned out to be a 20 hours journey but better that than an overnight stop in Kargil which is a noisy, filthy and busy town. I was lucky to be travelling with Emma English lass whom I had previously met in Srinagar, so it was nice to have company, share a good laugh and a chat. It was close to full moon that night and because the sun had been so strong during the day the snow was melting quicker which meant that the road was flooded on some parts. So at 1am and 3am we were wading through a torrent of water and pushing the jeep some of the way. Lucky we had some strong and fun Indian guys who were making the whole event into an adventure. It was a long night but so amazing to see the glaciers and mountain during the full moon. As Emma said “wow, now that is some geography!” At one point we saw a herd of wild donkey running around and playing in a meadow, braying at the top of their lungs, maybe they were pretending to be a pack of wolves howling at the moon.

The road from Kargil to Leh was paved, Yahoo!!! So it was a fast portion of the journey.  Seems that since the Hindi movie “The Three Idiots came out a few years back, Ladhak has been swamped with Indian tourists which meant better roads had to be built. Leh is packed full of tourists, hikers, rafters and people here for the teachings. Leh used to be a quiet place but it is busy these days. Luckily found a room with a great view of the mountain for only 300 rupees, ($6) ok it has a bucket shower  but hey no worries.

HH Dalai Lama teaching in Zanskar

ladies of Ladhak

Muslim ladies selling all kinds of jewelry

hanging out by the prayer wheel

Overnight this tiny, quiet village became a bustling town. Thousands of people descended from Ladhak and other Himalayan regions all dressed in their finest traditional costumes. The streets have prayer flags decorations and the general atmosphere is warm and friendly with a sense of celebration. In the afternoon the whole main square turns into a market where you can buy jewelry,  religious items and decorations, clothes, plastic items of all varieties or just sit and watch the world go by while you have your shoes polished. I cannot say enough out just how friendly the people here are it is just a pleasure to be here and be part of the crowd.

The teaching ground

HHDL arrived by helicopter at 7am and the street were lined with people offering Kata (Tibetan white scarf) and incense.  By 8.30am he was teaching on the 37 practices of the Bodhisattva, a wonderful text while is a lifelong practice and every I hear him teach it I get something new and inspiring form it. The sun was brutal yesterday and many of the people in the foreigners section had to leave. I bared it out as I had a great view of his Holiness and 2 bottles of water, one to drink the other to soak a headscarf with. Today was so much easier to sit as there was a perfect cloud cover and a wee cool breeze.
 Again today His Holiness continued with the text but also taught on the Buddhist view of dependant origination, which was amazing as always. He is in great health for 77 years old and was joking with the audience and the translators and we foreigners even got a big wave and a laugh from him as he say on his throne. He is the most intelligent, humble, humorous and down to earth leader we have on the planet today, a true inspiration. So teaching finished around 12.30 pm and tomorrow he will do a Chenrazig (Bodhisattva of compassion) empowerment and also teach another small teach the eight verses of mind training, another great text that takes a lot of practice. There will also be a long life ceremony offered to His Holiness form the people of Zanskar region.

HHDL teaching from his throne

Monk with cool hat

Another good part of the day is the early morning walk across the valley to the teaching grounds. I leave the guest house around 6.45 and it take a good 45 minutes walking across the lush green fields with yellow and blue flowers. Listening to the birds, as I watch the sun peep out over the mountains and feeling the breeze while breathing in the fresh air is just heaven. Today I walked beside two old men, about my size with faces tanned like leather by the sun and deep set wrinkles in the form of smiles. They must have been deaf, as they were shouting at each other the whole way and as one shouted the other fingered the beads on a mala as he recited the Om Mani Padme Hung Mantra; a precious memory.

Day 2 in Padam Zanskar

So nice to have a few days just to be here and enjoy the place. Yesterday was a bit overcast and cold so had a bit of a long lie in. After breakfast I got a lift to the monastery across the valley from the restaurant owner. The monastery is the largest monastery in Zanskar called Karsha Gompa. ( link below)  A beautiful place perched on the side of a cliff. The monks were all busy cleaning and reorganizing the main prayer hall as His Holiness will visit in a few days. They are also re-doing all the wall paintings of various Buddha’s which have to be hundreds of years old. Up at these high elevations everything takes more effort and walking up uphill take time, but what a great view.

Today after fighting with the internet for a few hours I had a walk to the rock carvings of the 5 Diyani Buddha’s right by the river. The carvings were amazing and probably a few thousand years old and again very intricate work. Having a sit for a while with my face up to the sun, listening to the river and the birds was a wee bit of heaven.

 Down town Padam is a busy crossroads and it is interesting to see the mix of people. The restaurant workers and some of the laborers come from one of my favorite places in the world Bodhgaya, Bihar and Manali. People arriving from the teaching or for hiking are of all varieties, many westerners from various European countries, Israel, Russia and USA also some people from Ladhak and other mountain regions of India including Spiti, Lahole, Kinnaur and Himachal Pradesh. There are also Indian tourists from Delhi and Mumbai. There s also a mix of Muslim and Buddhist and what is interesting is to see a person who look very Tibetan dressed as a Muslim with a long beard saying “Joolay” which is a Ladhaki greeting. Let’s just say it is a real mix up here but everyone is getting on just fine.

http://kunzum.com/2009/07/24/the-karsha-monastery-near-padum-in-zanskar-in-ladakh/