Bodhgaya, Bihar. Dec. 30th

After a really great xmas with family, complete with a lots of laughs and good chats, a fantastic dinner and surprisingly warm and sunny weather in which I really got to appreciate the beauty of Fraserburgh, leaving Scotland wrenched at the heart strings. This just made entry into India all the more surreal.

It has been a full on assault of the senses, from the first whiff of pollution as you exit the plane, the no rules driving while avoiding cows, rickshaws, pedestrians, ox drawn carts and trucks, to the blaring Bollywood music at 1am. It takes at least five days to settle in and today is day 2 and I am pooped; maybe I need some more overly sugared chai. Regardless, I am so very happy to be here amongst the mass of humanity gathering here  for Kalachakra 2012. I have been coming to this village since 1996 and it has grown immensely since then. I feel fortunate to have memories of a time when it was small and intimate. I have witnesses some local kids grow up and it feels nice that the shopkeepers, street sellers and even beggars remember my name and always want to take time out for tea and a chat.

I knew it would be busy here but it has gone beyond my expectations. There are 4 huge tent areas one of which boasts accommodation for 40, 000 people, every hotel is full and rooms in family homes let. In the pedestrian areas I was literally walking in a sea of people but for all this busyness, inside the grounds of the main temple is peaceful because this year playing loud music and using megaphones to recite prayers has been banned, Thank you to whom ever came up with that brilliant idea !

Today I got orientated; found the quick path through the village and the fields to my favorite restaurant and the field where the teachings will take place. Then I topped up the pre-paid phone with 200 rupees, bought a foam pad,blanket, torch, cup, washing powder and 2 breathing mask as the dust is as bad as ever and will only get worse. I also met some very dear friends on the way and caught up with their news, however seems that many of the western Buddhist are staying away this year, claiming it is just too busy, too expensive and just way too much hassle; so let’s see how I survive.

Bodhgaya Bihar

First port of call on landing will be Bihar the most poor, lawless and corrupt state in India, but also home to the most important pilgrimage site for Buddhists, the place of Buddha’s enlightenment. Weird how such a holy site representing the full and positive potential of a human being is surrounded by the worst of human nature. The towering, carved stupa, Bodhi tree with gold leaf offerings on its bark and tranquil flower garden grounds are starkly contrasted with the street mayhem of shoeless cripples, lepers and old people begging in tattered clothes, pushy street sellers and child pick pockets. This pilgrimage season will see the most people ever to decent of the tiny village of Bodgaya, I get excited just thinking about it.


 His Holiness the Dalai Lama will confer the 32^nd Kalachakra initiation. Tibetans believe it is good to receive this initiation three time to ensure a good re-birth, well I probably have a lot to rectify in this life so this will be my 7^th time and I hope they are right. Millions of pilgrims will be coming from Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Ladhak and Arunachal Pradesh in North East India as well as countries from all over of the world. Living conditions will be sparse such as tent cities, mud hut restaurants and basic, basic toilet facilities. Food supplies may be going scarce and for sure you would not want to drink the water. I am sure to re-united with long time Dharma and local friends and for sure make some new friends too.

For small Bodgaya video of the temple  try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qk-9Ez3xICY

For info on Kalachakra try    http://www.dalailama.com/teachings/kalachakra-initiations
http://kalachakranet.org/       http://www.kalachakra2012.org/

Fraserburgh, Scotland, UK

Grey faces, grey sky, grey sea, grey granite buildings and a strong north wind that creates horizontal rain. On a sunny day Fraserburgh can be beautiful but in December it is damp, dark and grim however the people’s quick wit, dry humour and generosity of heart has made me go ahhhh!  Home sweet home. On the corner of North east Scotland this once bustling, wind blasted, treeless, fishing port is home to about 12, 000 hard working folk, some of which are immigrants for eastern Europe. Many of the men work away from home in dangerous jobs either off shore on the oil rigs or at sea, so North East women as traditionally pretty strong and self reliant.  Being here is humbling, a good reality check and a reminder to appreciate the simple things in life such as family, good health and a non rainy day.

 I have been having a great time visiting all my relations and drinking way too many cups to tea, laying flowers at granny and granda’s grave, shopping and preparing for xmas with mum, going for walks with dad, and just been amazed at how my friends kids have grown into beautiful, smart young ladies and my brother kids into chivalrous young men. Wow where did the time go and boy am I fortunate to be here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraserburgh

Leaving on the jet plane today. (Scotland for Xmas then India Dec 28th) Hahahaha!  Yahoooo!   Apartment is bare, just my trusty back pack, this computer, oh and I have to clean out the fridge before  the new tenant arrives at noon. It has been a whirlwind getting organized and of course the inevitable last minute stuff I forget about took up all the time which I should have be spending with friends. A huge thank you to Ashley, Kat and Susan this week for helping me get ready to leave but more so for their friendship, encouragement and just for being the great women they are; i'll mis yi ladies.

Finding myself in mid-life with no family obligations, well educated but unemployed and unable to find work in Washington DC, I could not help but ask myself, how did I get here?  There were so many job, even unpaid internship rejection letters! Recovering from 8 years of academic institutions, I was not ready or able to conform and squeeze myself into an institutional job or sell my soul for minimum wage as a secretary in a well meaning but financially strapped NGO. Changing careers is tough, even more so these days especially at this age. I was determined not to let this get me down and re-thought the situation, hey this could be a once in a lifetime opportunity and there is a lot if life and fire in me yet.  So I decided to go back to India, my spiritual home and volunteer.  First I want to re-connect with my heart, become content and peaceful again as well as focused and clear so that I can be productive instead of stressed out and scattered as I have been for most of this year.

 I plan to volunteer with various organizations that work to end human trafficking, slavery and gender violence. I will also go to Kashmir and work alongside the women who are working to bring about social justice and build peace in the region. This blog will be about this inner and outer journey, about places and issue but most importantly it is not about me but about the people in India and their work. I hope to listen, let them tell their stories and connect you to them. Lets all see what happens.

December 4th 2011: A new blog is born!